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Thread: Armed USS Permit/Jack Scratch Build

  1. #101
    Guest

    Default

    "Don't know about Steve, but I represented those flat plane circular areas on my models and masters by cutting a brass disc and insetting it into a circular depression cut atop the hull, using a filler to fair in the outboard sides of the disc with the hull."

    Ditto!

    Steve Reichmuth

  2. #102
    ManOwaR Guest

    Default Scribing and Brass work

    I'm back,
    There hasn't been alot done in the last few days. I have been spending most of my free time (which isn't much lately) trying to find or look at photos for references. I have however, managed
    to get most of the deck scribed. Also last night I made up my "gold dubloon" hatches.





    I don't know what happened to all the brass sheets I had kicking around so I had to waste time getting some more for the hatches and the templates that I am going to have to make up.

    Notice on here that I drew and scribed the the teardrop shape on the forward escape hatch. Looking at all these picture I couldn't find any eveidence of a pointy front on this thing so I later rounded it off. I have a feeling the point has more to do with the way the dubloon fits in there in relation to the hull. If not I guess I will have a bit of filling to do.




    Here is what they look like. The slightly larger one is for the forward section. To get the final shape I just ground off all the excess and then filed the shape down manually when I was close to the outside scribe line....


    Hopefully, I will be able to get more work done the way I would like....
    Joel

  3. #103
    Merriman Guest

    Default Re: Scribing and Brass work

    Quote Originally Posted by ManOwaR
    ...Notice on here that I drew and scribed the the teardrop shape on the forward escape hatch. Looking at all these picture I couldn't find any eveidence of a pointy front on this thing so I later rounded it off. I have a feeling the point has more to do with the way the dubloon fits in there in relation to the hull. If not I guess I will have a bit of filling to do...
    Joel
    Joel,

    That pointed extension of the disc, which represents the forward hatch seating surface, is a foundation for the heavy fixed towing padeye used to tow the submarine if it should ever become disabled on the surface.

    Now that you know what to look for you'll see the pad eye in some of your reference photos.

    Great looking work, boy!

    David,

  4. #104
    ManOwaR Guest

    Default

    Ah yes. Thanks for the heads up David.
    In that case I think what I will do to keep things as clean as possible is just make a new piece, and that won't take too long.

    Joel

  5. #105
    ManOwaR Guest

    Default Sail Detailing

    Hello everyone,
    I remade the forward escape hatch and then installed the aft hatch. Nothing really new here to explain as I just used the above noted produre for for mounting it. I don't know what everyone else uses for the bit but I use forstner bits. They give an almost completely flush surface excluding the small pilot hole in the center. I have seen them mostly used for installing hardware for doors on european style cabinets. I didn't install the hatch because I didnt have the right size bit for it. (I need 15/16 and I only have 1" and 7/8" of course!) I must say that I was tempted to try one of the other bits and do some chiseling..but why bother? Ill wait till tomorrow and get the right tool for the job. So I decided to do the sail detailing.

    An extra added super bonus was that this tv show called Arms Race was on highligting submarine competition between the USA and USSR. I caught this pic just as they were starting in on my Permit.
    It's a pretty inspiring way to be working on a model when they are hyping up the same class on tv. Also pretty informative. I find that one of the most rewarding things about doing models is all the research done and info gained while doing the model at the same time. The amount to learn is virtually endless.


    The sail is once again a love hate-relationship for me. There really isn't alot of detail on the vertical part of the sail- so that is easy sailing...




    The top cap is a different story to scribe. With the small size and large curves, scribing this thing was a bitch! It's done though and looks pretty good I think.




    Back to the hull tonight.
    Joel

  6. #106
    Guest

    Default

    Shit your good. Now I'm learning from you!!

    steve

  7. #107
    ManOwaR Guest

    Default

    I don't know about that Steve, but thanks!

    Joel

  8. #108
    ManOwaR Guest

    Default Finishing The Deck Details

    Oy!
    Ok, some bad news. The firewall that 'protects' our computer network at work decided that Subpirates is an 'offensive' site and now blocks me access. That really means I can't type my updates early in the morning anymore. I don't like to do it in the evening because the kids usually won't tolerate it! hehe. Anyways I'll find some time somewhere.

    This afternoon I picked up my 15/16 forstner and tried it out on some scrap for test fitting. I don't want to screw up my hull without seeing how the bit performs first and seeing how the brass fits. They can be touchy when it comes to the delicate work as they need more pressure to bore unlike a normal bit which almost feeds itself. so far so good! so what?


    Next step was to sharpen a couple of chisels to a razor edge. The larger, of which hand pressure was used to create nice clean lines for the disc extensions. The second small chisel was carefully used to scrape out the remaining material.




    A little more trimming here and there and the disc fit perfect.


    Next after fitting the discs I drew out the non-skid in sharpie and then lightly scribed it as per Dave Merriman.


    The lines look a little scribbly in the picture,but there is a method to the madness as its hard to get a straight accurate line due to hull curvature.



    Im extremely curious as to how it's going to look when molded as I've never done this before, the time is getting closer....

    Finally, Evercoat for bonding and initial filling and then a few coats of spot putty.


    Tommorrow Ill sand the fillets on the hatches to final shape, scribe in the torpedo doors, safety track, a couple of other odds and sods and the details should be done.

    Joel

  9. #109
    John Anderson Guest

    Default

    A flexiable machinest scale will help keep lines true on a curved surface.
    Another trick is to use pinstriping tape to layout the line to be scribed. You can easily see where it's going off line.

  10. #110
    ManOwaR Guest

    Default Torpedo Doors, Safety Track, Conduit

    Hello from the Depths,
    Last night I embarked upon trying to finish up all the detailing on the hull.

    I drew out and scribed the Safety track. I used a little more pressure scribing it due to it being one of the more visible details on the real subs. For the Torpedo doors, of which I consider to be the very beginning of the most important part of the whole project I made a template out of some light gauge steel that I had kicking around. I made sure that all the burrs were cleaned up so I didn’t damage the plug.









    After the vast majority of scribing was done I needed to make a conduit for the floating wire antenna. What I did first was find some 3/32” brass rod for the proper conduit diameter size. I initially wanted to use my 1/8” tube benders to do the job, but I found that the bend radius was too large for the small dogleg offset that needed. You will however, be seeing a lot more of these bad boys when I get to the torpedo system.



    The trick to bending the rod properly lies in finding objects that have a proper radius to bend around. For this small little piece I use a combination of ¼” stainless tubing, 1” dowel and a 1 3/8” section of a shovel handle!

    This picture shows a great way to get a good bend that will start where it’s supposed to and leave and prior tubing to the bend unmolested. My vise has jaws with grooves cut out where I can slip the rod into. I then tighten in my desired radius, in this case the ¼” ss making sure that radius is touching the start of bend mark that’s on the rod. When you bend the jaw of the vise keeps the tube in place and you get a perfect bend out of the deal.
    How do I know to do this? As an Instrument technician a lot of what we do involves tube bending. These are some tricks of the trade that helped make life easier for special applications.




    Next up was to trace the outline of my part onto the hull. I heavily scribed it and then used a 3/32" drill bit to manual trench the shape until the piece fit in to its radius. I was going to use a Dremel to do this, but it would have been too sketchy and risky. The drill bit worked great anyway.


    A little marine epoxy and the piece was clamped in overnight to cure.


    Some thick CA to fill the remaining gaps and add more strength and all was good….


    How she is starting to look…


    Regards,
    Joel

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