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Thread: Armed USS Permit/Jack Scratch Build

  1. #11
    ManOwaR Guest


    The other great thing about doing the 8 ply mdf plug is that it gives me an automatic, premade perfect center line for reference.


  2. #12


    Works for me!


  3. #13
    ManOwaR Guest

    Default Sail time

    Ok, on to the sail. My plan is to make a 3 piece sail. What I mean by this is that I will have 2 fiberglass sides and a removable top made from alumilite. I guess you could call that a 2 peice. The reason for this being is that I am going to make 2 caps, one for display which will not have any visible screws and some serious detail and one for actual practical use with screws attaching it to the top. I feel that it be a huge advantage to be able to access the working plane linkages from the top.

    First, I cut out my top view and side view of the sail. Next i cut a piece of 3/4 mdf on the table to roughly around 4 x 3". The main thing being is that it was square. i then marked the center line all the way around the block

    Next, I contact cemented the pieces on to the block. I used the the top as flush reference and the back where the points meet.

    I then cut the wood off the bottom of the block. This "waste" piece will come in handy later for a couple reasons.

    I hot melted this piece back on to the bottom of the sail block, exactly where I cut it from. This will keep the top of the sail square to the world. I then cut up some scrap 1/4" particle board. 2 pices about length of the sail block. I then hot melted one of the pieces to the bottom of the block.

    This gives me a sacrificial platform in which to form one side of the sail on my disk sander without worrying about losing the skin off of my fingers. Or more importantly it keeps the block perfectly square to the disk surface.

  4. #14
    ManOwaR Guest


    This pic shows how stable this configuration can be.

    One side done

    I took the first piece of 1/4" off the bottom, flipped the sail around on a new piece and shaped up the other side.

    Two sides done. Total time to shape on this sander? approximately 3 minutes! (not including the time to flip the block onto a new 1/4" holder)

  5. #15
    ManOwaR Guest

    Default Sail cap

    For the top part of sail I removed the small chunk that I initially cut off the bottom. I figured why not use this peice as it already is the shape of the sail. All I did was hot melt it to a sacrificial block of mdf so I once again could shape the side profile with ease. I then put the block in the vise and shaped the cap as needed with a file, and some 60 and 100 grit.

    That should be it for rough sail work.
    Up next: Appendiges


  6. #16


    At this rate you'll have this boat done by next week! LOL!1

    Good fast and clean job. A fine addition to the rest of the gifted on Subpirates.

    David. What about this guys. Should we let him live?


  7. #17
    John Anderson Guest



    Page 6 of this article has the correct contour and dimensions of the bow caps of Permit/ Sturgeon class boats.

  8. #18
    ManOwaR Guest


    Thanks Steve,
    I don't know how long I will be able to keep up the pace though, I guess that will depend on how far I can push the wife's tolerance for me being in the garage all the time! hehe

  9. #19


    Excellent. But in regard to the sail top cap, make the apex of the curve along the sail centerline perhaps a little shallower. See the photos - particularly the lower photo - stern view. The two slots there are the snorkel diesel exhaust openings. If I ever built another Permit class, it would probably be a larger scale 'Jack' too.

    Steve Reichmuth

  10. #20


    Well mine is pretty good about it. She loves to see something evolve out of raw materials she can identify. Shows my creations off to her friends which I have become some kind of mad monk to all of them. LOL!!

    Your fast a clean. You'll do fine.


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