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Thread: Armed USS Permit/Jack Scratch Build

  1. #21
    ManOwaR Guest

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    Hehe, Mine has been gracious enough to basically give me the whole long weekend!
    Yes, it does seem apparent that the top cap might have to brought down a smidge, it also looks like it is completely rounded instead of the rounded corners that I have done from my plans. I appreciate the input you guys are giving...keep it up! I am not a "rivet counter" per se, but I do want to try and get all the major items as close to scale as I can.

    Thanks!
    Joel

  2. #22
    ManOwaR Guest

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    Alrighty then, here is the general hull shape of the Permit. you might notice that the front end no longer is attached to the attachment wheel. This is because I left the lathe on high speed from the last time I used it. Usually it's a good idea to turn it down to low before you turn it off. Needless to say I turned it on this morning and the whole thing torqued off the remaining wood like it was made of playdough! Also not too cool having a 25 lb bow section flying around either! Everthying is ok though...my foot prevented any damage happening to section. hehe.



    Joel

  3. #23
    Guest

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    HA! The foot will grow back. Good move!

    steve

  4. #24
    ManOwaR Guest

    Default Sail Plane

    The project for today was to build as many of the control surfaces that I could. I must admit that I had been kinda dreading this day as these objects have some crazy coumpound angles and countours. The way I approached these then was almost exactly the same way that I did the sail. I must admit that Im extremely happy with the end result of the sail plane.

    Before I started this project I took the plans down to a specialized print shop to have them scanned. I then took the file and printed out multiple views that were far easier to manage than the full size print. (Yes they are exactly to scale). This way I can make as many cutouts as I want without destroying the originals. Lucky for me, the girl who did the work didnt charge me anything because we found out she was the wife of some dude who I had hired the week before to sweep floors at the shop! Pretty cool considering this is a city of over a million people.












    I should be a hand model





    Take note that i took the liberty to draw in and create some separation lines between the sail and the plane. The plans don't have any.

    Joel

  5. #25
    ManOwaR Guest

    Default Rudder

    The same technique is applied with the rudder prototype. The only difference is that I had to file out the base notch. I will take an oversize Forstner bit to that gap late on in order to round the inside to enable free turning of the rudders. The pilot on the forstner will also give me a drill point for later on when the parts are casted.





    Once again very happy with the outcome. Just some minor sanding and filling for the parts...I will wait till all fabrication is done and then do it all in one shot.

    Joel

  6. #26
    ManOwaR Guest

    Default Stern Plane

    Same as above. The only difference this time is that I used the table saw with blade up full to cut in the stabalizer gaps.





    Not as happy with the fished outcome on this one. My sanding wheel got clogged up with hot melt that I didnt remove properly on the last peices. I ended up having to replace that disk with a lower grit and ended up taking some material off that I didnt want to.

    Joel

  7. #27
    ManOwaR Guest

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    Here is a question. As I havn't been in this sub game for very long at all, I would like to know what you guys mostly prefer for the control planes. Do you like having the shaft casted right into the part, glueing the shaft in after the fact or having a cast in collar with a set screw? Right now I'm leaning towards casting in collars for the sail planes and stern planes, then casting the shaft right into the rudders so you can't see a visible set screw. Any input?

    Thanks,
    Joel

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    149

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    Joel,

    Speaking as a table saw amputee, I highly recommend you not make a side cut into a small block with the blade extended. The force of the blade, plus the friction of your fingers in even the most gentle contact with the piece, will draw your hand into the blade, despite any effort on your part to prevent it.

    Instead, set the blade height to the depth of your cut, and use a crosscut gage to hold the piece on edge .

    You might consider hot-glueing a larger piece to your part, or making those kind of cuts before cutting the part to actual length, as the smaller a piece is , the more unstable it is.

    Believe me, no amount of regret will bring back the micro-seconds it takes to leave a finger on the table.

    Besides that, nice looking work !!
    If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer.

  9. #29
    ManOwaR Guest

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    Hal,
    Looking back in retrospect, you are absolutely right, even though I have used saws for a quite awhile, thats where the danger lies, in losing the fear of the blade and taking shortcuts. Better idea too to get a square cut throuout the whole piece.

    Thanks,
    Joel

  10. #30
    Pirate Guest

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    ManOwar,

    Great start.
    I'm a big fan of using MDF too. One word of caution though. Be careful when sealing the hull plug. Build your primer, or sealer up in light, light coats, and let them each dry thouroughly. When I did this, the wetness of the primer swelled the wood. The problem was it swelled the wood everywhere except along the glue lines. So it became difficult to get the glue seams hidden once dry. This required a lot of rounds of filler. And even then, the heat and pressure of the mold material still pulled these lines out, and they ended up in the mold.

    Good luck.

    Pete

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