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Thread: 1/96 Permit Kit Build Guide Part 1

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    Default 1/96 Permit Kit Build Guide Part 1

    This is the build instructions written by Paul Crozier a few years ago. I still think it is the best set of instructions written to date for the construction of a FRP hull kit and the installation of one of D&Es very nice WTC 3.00 ballast systems. I will insert the pics as I have time. The full manual is 98 pages in length.


    SSN 594 PERMIT

    1/96 Scale Model Submarine Kit
    THE KIT

    1. Below are the contents of the Permit kit. Included is a sheet of 1/96 scale Permit class hull plans (hang them over your work area for quick reference), two epoxy hull halves, cast polyurethane appendage set and sail, a white metal fittings set with propeller, stainless steel drive shaft, stainless steel photo etched MBT vent detail set, and running gear linkage set. Upon receipt of any kit be sure to inventory the contents with the enclosed parts sheet prior to assembly. Notify the manufacturer immediately of any damaged or missing parts.




    2. Shown is the resin sail with brass diesel exhaust diffuser molded into the upper trailing edge. Mounting bolts with nuts extend from the bottom of the part. To the right of the sail, and below, are the resin masts and sail mounted diving planes. To the left of the sail is the white metal fittings set with bollards, cleats, zincs, periscopes and other mast parts. Below them is the white metal propeller (a stainless steel set screw is provided).






    3. Here are, beginning at left, the drive train resin parts (thrust bearing bulkhead and two WTC saddles). Next at top are the control linkage jumpers, thrust bearings, universal coupler and allen wrench. Below them are the stainless steel photo-etched MBT vents and cast resin mushroom anchor. Continuing to the right are, first, the rudders, then the stern planes. If everything is present and accounted for, proceed with assembly.



    PREPARATION - Parts Washing

    1. Prior to assembly, care must be taken to prepare each part to ensure that glue and/or paint will properly adhere to it's surface. Using warm soapy water and a scotch-brite pad, scrub and wash each part thoroughly to remove any
    remaining mold release agent. Dry the parts and set them in a container to ensure they will not be misplaced.



    2. Certain essential tools and raw materials will be required to complete the kit. They include:

    3/8" electric drill
    Drill bit set
    Dremel moto-tool & bits
    Needle file set
    2 hour cure epoxy
    Micro-balloons
    CA adhesive
    1/2" fiberglass tape
    1/8" o.d. brass tubing
    Tubing cutter
    X-acto knife
    Razor saw (small)
    Ruler & drafting compass
    Sand paper (assorted)
    Masking tape
    Dixie cups
    Disposable brushes
    Baking soda
    1/4" closed cell foam
    10-15 ozs. lead weight
    1 tube Nitro-Stan putty
    Attached Images

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    Default PREPARATION - Parts Trimming

    PREPARATION - Parts Trimming

    1. Before actual assembly begins, care should be taken to trim up any access flash, or rough edges, on the resin parts. This can be accomplished with an Xacto knife. Gently whittle away any excess resin, making sure that you don't damage the part itself. Take your time and work with each part carefully.






    2. Once the parts are trimmed, use 600 grit sandpaper and sand the hull and the parts. This will provide the "tooth" necessary for proper paint and glue adhesion. Take care not to sand away any of the scribing or other detail on the hull and/or parts. Sand enough to make the surface uniformly dull. Resin parts can be sanded further to provide a
    smooth finished appearance.



    3. Now is the time to trim the indexing lip. First, a cutting line must be marked. I improvised a simple marking tool. Place the lower hull on a flat surface and find a flat object on which you can place a sharpie. This object must be tall enough so that the point of the sharpie touches the hull approximately a 1/2" above the boat's centerline. In this case a small cup and ruler were used. Holding the hull steady, slide the object with the sharpie around the hull, marking a line on the indexing lip.

    Trimming of the indexing lip on other Thor kits is not required. Matt recommended it on his Permits as the lip was a little longer than normal. Cutting it down improves the hull fit.




    4. Using a Dremel Moto-tool with a cutoff wheel, cut along the marked line and removed the excess material. Use a file to knock down any rough edges along the cut. REMEMBER: always use eye protection and a dust mask when using the Dremel. And use the Dremel outdoors or in the garage - the dust is very messy!



    With parts preparation completed it is now time to proceed to Hull Assembly.
    Attached Images
    Regards,

    Matt

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    Default HULL ASSEMBLY - Cut the Stern

    HULL ASSEMBLY - Cut the Stern

    1. Place the upper hull on an appropriate work area and locate the scribed cutting line. It is an arc approximately 3.5 inches from the stern of the hull. Utilize a razor saw for the cutting process. The thinner the blade, the less material will be lost during the cutting process. This will allow for a tight fit between the two parts once the hull is assembled.

    Webster's dictionary defines kerf as: "the channel made by a saw, or the width of such channel". When sawing on models remember: the thinner the saw blade, the narrower the kerf!

    NOTE: I don't use a Dremel and cut off wheel for this procedure. While some do, my hands aren't steady enough.


    2. Place the razor saw on the scribed line. Gently draw the saw across the line to ensure that the blade is following the scribing perfectly. Continue to saw until the stern is separated.


    3. If done carefully, you should have two parts with a perfectly matched seam. This will enhance the appearance of the hull when the stern piece is joined to the bottom of the hull -- which is done next.
    Attached Images
    Regards,

    Matt

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    Default HULL ASSEMBLY - Gluing the Stern

    HULL ASSEMBLY - Gluing the Stern

    1. Test fit the two upper hull pieces onto the lower hull. File the stern of the lower hull if necessary to ensure the upper stern piece fits snugly. All parts should seat completely with minimal gaps between parts.

    The following raw materials (left to right) are recommended to glue the stern pieces together: disposable epoxy brush, micro-balloons, dixie cups (for mixing), and two hour cure epoxy (for maximum bond strength). WARNING: Never use 5 minute epoxy on joints which will be exposed to water. It is NOT waterproof.


    Please note there are a wide variety of adhesives for the modeler to chose from. Optimum results can be obtained by observing several rules:

    Epoxy resin can be used to bond epoxy and polyester hulls and parts.

    Polyester resin should only be used on polyester hulls.

    Quick cure epoxies (5 minute) are NOT waterproof.

    The less resin used when bonding a joint, the better. Excess resin actually decreases joint strength.

    Adding micro-balloons to an epoxy will significantly increase it's cure time.



    2. In 2 dixie cups, fill the bottom of each with approximately 1/8" of epoxy parts A & B respectively. Be sure to observe the proper mixing ratio as stated on the epoxy label (such as 1:1, part A to part B). Add to each cup an equal amount of micro-balloons and stir until the liquid and micro-balloons are mixed thoroughly.


    3. Add the two mixtures together in one cup and blend them together thoroughly with an epoxy brush. When completed, the mixture should have the consistency of toothpaste. If it is too thin, add more micro-balloons. If it is too thick, add more epoxy (be sure to add both parts in the proper ratio).




    4. Brush the epoxy/micro-balloon mixture onto the lower hull where the upper stern half will be joined. NOTE: Be careful not to apply any epoxy to the indexing lip in areas where the forward half of the upper hull will seat.


    5. Place the upper stern piece in position on the lower hull. Allow the epoxy/micro-balloons to work into the seam. Wipe away any excess resin with a paper towel. Use strips of masking tape to hold the upper stern piece in place.

    The inside of this crucial seam should be reinforced at this time. Continue to the next post for the procedure.
    Attached Images
    Regards,

    Matt

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    Default HULL ASSEMBLY - Gluing the Stern (continued)

    HULL ASSEMBLY - Gluing the Stern (continued)

    1. In order to reinforce the inside seam of the stern piece, 1" heavy weave fiberglass tape will be epoxied over the inside joint. With scissors, cut two strips of fiberglass tape three inches long.

    2. While working on a sheet of wax paper, brush the remaining epoxy/micro-balloon mix onto the strips of fiberglass tape. Wet both sides of the tape, then remove excess resin with the brush.

    3. Inside the hull, place a piece of wetted tape over the stern seam on each side. Wick out any excess resin with the brush.

    4. Making sure there is no epoxy on the exposed indexing lip, place the upper forward hull onto the lower and make any adjustments in the position of the upper stern piece that is necessary. What's a sure fire way to keep an adjacent part from being bonded while you use it to align another part that is being glued? When working with epoxy, spread a thin film of petroleum jelly on the surface you want to remain free from glue.

    Once everything is lined up, secure the pieces with tape. Dispose of epoxy mixing cup and brush. Set the hull aside and allow the epoxy to cure overnight.
    Attached Images
    Regards,

    Matt

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    Default HULL ASSEMBLY - Hull Openings

    HULL ASSEMBLY - Hull Openings

    1. With the stern piece completely cured, it is now time to open the many holes necessary to correctly model a Permit class SSN. Using the supplied plans as a reference, locate the dimple in the hull where the mushroom anchor is mounted just forward of the lower rudder. Using an electric drill and a 7/32 bit, drill out the dimple to receive the cast resin mushroom anchor. Use a round file to widen the hole to fit if necessary.

    NOTE: Following the curing of the stern pieces, I painted the Permit hull with primer. This allowed the scribed hull opening lines to be more clearly seen during the drilling process. Details on how to prime and paint the boat will be outlined later.

    2. Switch to a 1/8 bit and drill one or two holes in each Main Ballast Tank flood hole. The MBT floods are rectangular in shape and there are 5 grouped just forward of the anchor. These holes will allow the use of a Dremel grinding bit to further cleanout the opening. To prevent mistakes, take the time to mark each flood to be opened with a pencil or marker prior to drilling.

    3. Moving forward, locate the next set of floods amidships and drill similar holes in them as well. There are 20 MBT floods in this section.

    NOTE: Do not drill in the T-shaped area scribed in between the flood groups. This is the cover for the Secondary Propulsion Motor (SPM) and should be left intact.

    4. Locate the forward group of floods near the sonar dome demarcation line. There are 14 scribed rectangles. Drill pilot holes in each of the floods.

    5. With the floods completed, switch to a 7/32 bit and drill pilot holes in the two Main Sea Water openings on either side of the hull. The lower hull opening pilot holes are now complete.
    Attached Images
    Regards,

    Matt

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    Default Hull Openings-Cont.

    6. On the upper hull you will notice dimples representing the Main Ballast Tank vent openings. A set of stainless steel photoetched parts will accurately depict the MBT vents and will be installed in a later section. However, holes must be drilled in the hull to allow trapped air to escape through each vent during r/c operations. Using a 3/32 bit, drill a single hole in the center of each of the 6 MBT vent dimples in the forward section.

    7. Moving amidships, drill holes in each of these 6 MBT vent dimples.

    8. Finally, locate and drill the single MBT vent in the upper stern section of the lower hull. It is located slightly forward and to starboard of the upper rudder.

    Don't be alarmed. Though your model may look more like Swiss cheese than a submarine at this point, it will soon take on a scale appearance. And if you're curious as to what all those holes do on the real boat, check the following short hull opening glossary:

    Main Ballast Tank (MBT) vent: Round, stainless steel vent valve in the top of main ballast tanks that open to allow air to escape for diving and close to trap air for surfacing.

    Main Ballast Tank flood/drain: Rectangular opening in the bottom of main ballast tanks that allow the free flow of water into, and out of, the tank during diving and surfacing.

    Secondary Propulsion Motor (SPM): A small retractable electric motor mounted in the lower hull amidships. Used for maneuvering the boat in close quarters such as pierside.

    Main Sea Water (MSW) intake/discharge: Large round hull openings through which reactor coolant water is taken into, and expelled from, the boat.
    _________________
    Attached Images
    Regards,

    Matt

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    Default HULL ASSEMBLY - Hull Openings (Pt. II

    HULL ASSEMBLY - Hull Openings (Pt. II)

    1. With all the pilot holes drilled out it is now time to change tools. For the next phase you will need a Dremel moto tool and several needle files. Small needle files can be bought in sets with varying shapes.

    2. The Dremel tool should be used first to grind out the flood holes. A steel grinding bit is preferred. Shown are the two bits. The larger cylindrical grinding bit in the tool was used for the majority of the holes. The smaller round bit to right was used on the smaller floods (the object to the right of the second bit is the mandrel needed for the smaller bit).

    3. Moving outside, insert the Dremel in each pilot hole and grind out the hull material. You want to get close to the scribed lines but not actually to it. Use two hands as the epoxy hull is tough and the tool can wander if your grip isn't firm. Switch to the smaller bit and do the same thing in the smaller flood holes. Be sure to clean the dust off your clothes before going back inside. NOTE: Always wear safety glasses or goggles and a dust mask when grinding with a moto tool.

    4. With the grinding completed, pick up your needle file set and file out each opening to the scribed outline. Flat and square files work best and new, clean files make the job go quicker. A thicker square file is good for bringing the hole out to the scribed line. Use wider flat files to make the sides smooth and straight. Then, go back with the square file and true up the corners.

    5. One down, forty-two more to go! The upper right hand flood hole is what you should work for. The edges are straight, the corners true and the scribed line is no longer visible. With sharp files and some practice the average time per hole should be about five to ten minutes. But don't rush. The effort and care you put into the process will yield a better looking model.

    Once your floods are filed out and looking good, there is one more step to the hull assembly section.
    Attached Images
    Regards,

    Matt

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