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Thread: "ALMA" a 1891 scow schooner

  1. #51
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    Jun 2007
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    7 miles north of Phelan, CA
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    This morning, I was able to glue the railing on the other side of the hull.

    Still have an issue with the bow section curve.
    I decided to cut the bow curve section off the rail to work with it.
    I can now soak the piece in hot water and then using clamps and wooden blocks, shape the piece in to a usable curve.
    I will be doing the same to the second piece after the glue cures.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  2. #52
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    The second stern railing has been bent, glued and is currently in clamps and weights. (top left of photo)

    The bow piece that is missing in the above photo is now installed.
    The second bow pieces has been soaked and is in the bending clamps.

    Modified a couple of angle blocks.
    The bottom rail is wider than the middle rails, so I needed to place some spacers on the upper part of the blocks to hold the railing in 3/32".
    That will put the middle railing center of the bottom railing.

    The spaced have to be removable because the top hand rail is even with the bottom rail.
    Not a problem. Got if figured out.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  3. #53
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    I hope these short little build updates are not boring.

    I hold to my philosophy on building.
    Do something every day.
    Some times I can put in a few hours.
    Some times not so much.
    Most of the time I can steal 30 minutes before having to do real life stuff, so out to the shop I go and look at what needs to be done and pick something I can do in 20 to 30 minutes.
    Some times, I can only get 10 minutes but in 10 minutes, I can set things in some sort of order for the next time I am in the shop.

    Most of the time I prepare small parts for gluing, knowing that the glue will take over night to cure.
    So, just before I leave the shop, I glue what parts I can that can be clamped and or weights and left.
    But there are parts as well all know, that once you put glue on them, you have to stay with them for at least 30 minutes to keep them straight and in position.

    Tomorrow, I have some time I can spend in the shop.
    I will complete the other bow rail but then, I have to push the ALMA back and get the Skipjack on the bench.
    I need to open it up and check every thing to make sure it works for this coming Saturday gathering at the pond.
    If anything needs fixing or maintenance, like seal greasing I have a couple of days to get it done.
    Then make sure I charge all the batteries.
    The good thing about charging batteries is, they do ot need my attension so I can do something ele.

    I still have to make those small open chokes....but, Thursday, I will be near a large hobby shop that has small ship building parts.
    Maybe they have chokes I can modify. I will look.

    again, I hope these small updates are not boring.
    I don't want to leave big gaps in the building process.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  4. #54
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    Bottom side rails almost complete.
    Needs short piece at bow.


    Pre bending the bow piece.
    This became necessary when I tried to bend it during installation and it broke off.


    Next is installing the middle section of railing.
    The railing being bent and glued from the stern to the bow.
    The black mark near the ballast blocks is where I stopped the glue.
    After the railing glue has cured, I will use a rag and hot water to bent the bow section in to place.
    The bend is not so bad.
    It's the bend and the rise that caused the other parts to break.
    The front part of the railing is not on the hull, It leaves the hull in the straight flat part of the hull (black mark)


    View from rail level.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  5. #55
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    Four hours after gluing all but the very front of the middle rail, I am able to remove the wedges and weights.
    The glue has not cured but I can work with it as long as I am careful.

    Bending and gluing the middle rail at the bow.

    -----------------------------
    Using water I am bending the bow bottom rail.Removed it from the clamps to see how much bend I have and if it is correct to match the hull line.
    Not quite enough in one 2" spot.
    Soaked it again in hot water and put it back in the clamps and adjusted the clamps to get more bend where I need it.
    I might be able to install on the hull later today.
    The rail part is about 8" long.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  6. #56
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    Needing the bow sprint on the deck to get the correct angle on the side rail joints, I drilled two holes and used screws to temporarily mount the bow sprint.
    The screws go through the deck and in to the bow curving frame.
    So, I think it will hold just fine.

    Besides, I will also use glue when I finally mount the bow sprint permanently.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  7. #57
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    Skipjack was opened up this morning.
    Seals checked for silicone grease.
    Battery removed and charge to full.
    Searched work bench for tools needed to go with Skipjack, just in case they are needed.
    Tx is in shop because I use it for testing and charge is in house.
    Will need to bring the Tx in and charge it.

    Will get Skipjack back in it's transportation box and bring it in the house so it's near the front door.
    ===================
    Back to the ALMA.

    Installed Stern railing.
    Needed to butt up the side railings as I glue them in place.
    I installed the last side railing piece and it is currently clamped and weights.
    Should be able to trim excess glue this afternoon.

    Fitted the bow railing but can not install until the side railing cures.
    A little filing to get the correct angles to accept side railings.

    Next will be getting the side railing tops smoothed and flat to accept the rail top cap.
    My plan is to use a long 1"x2" board that will span the boat from side to side with about 6" of over hang.
    Using a small piece of sand paper, I will be able to slide the board back and forth and sand one rial at a time.
    Flip the board around and sand the other side.

    Reason for this is, the railing is built at an angle to the deck.
    The top cap is parallel to the deck so I need to sand the top of the railing to be parallel with the deck.
    I think this will take about 15 minutes to do.
    Then install the top cap board.

    Tomorrow, Thursday, is a day away from the house.
    I will how ever stop and look at the big hobby shop and see if I can find some small open chokes...or close that I can open up.

    The build is starting to look like things are getting done as parts are place in place.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  8. #58
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    Photos of rails installed.

    Bow


    Stern



    Looking from the bow with the deck hatch and cabin sitting in place.
    The four black plastic pieces sitting on the deck are the side splash rails.
    They go on top of the rail top cap which is not on yet.
    Well the bow and stern are.
    The cathead bits go through the bow splash rail.


    Closer look at bow.


    Closer look at stern.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  9. #59
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    Jun 2007
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    I had about 45 minutes this morning before leaving for the day.
    I went out to the shop and thought I would make sure I had enough wood pieces to make the railing cap.
    I did.
    I set one cap on the rail to look at it.
    I then had a thought about the wooden cap.
    It is balsa wood and very soft and will ding easily and show damage.
    Sitting on the deck were the plastic splash rails.
    I set that on the radio see if it would bend to the curve of the hull.
    It did.
    The thought was could I use the plastic to make the rail caps giving the rail some protection from dings and other damage.
    To do this, I would need two layers of plastic sheet 1/4" wide and 33" long.
    I can do that.
    Got my big sheet of plastic on the steel work table outside and started marking and cutting (with the back side of the Exacto knife) 3/8" strips.
    I would need to bond two pieces together to get the thickness needed to make one cap.

    Top photo shows the strips and the wooden pieces. Bottom photo shows the plastic strips clamped after applying the cement.
    Next time in the shop, I will use my drill press and a mill bit to make sure one side is flat and straight.
    Won't take much because I did some flat sanding before bonding to get close to flat and straight.
    Then I will set the mill to make a 5/16" wide cut of the strips.
    Then making very small passes, I will sneak up on the 1/4". Actually .246" to be scale.



    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Got home and had some time.
    Went out and cleaned up the two rail caps.
    Sanded one side flat and then ran both sides through my drill press with mill bit.
    Sized it down to the needed .246"

    Looking over the railings I installed yesterday, I needed to apply some glaze to fix a couple of soft spots that the clamps made marks in to.
    I will sand and clean those up tomorrow and maybe even start installing the top cap.
    Going to have to make a lot of .030" diameter wire pins like I used on the bow and stern railing to put the splash rails on.

    At the big hobby shop today, I did not find the chokes I was looking for but they said they would order them and we would see what they were when they came in.
    I did find some very small metal cleats. Package says 3/8" long. I think they have a place or two on my hull.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

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