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Thread: Skipjack Modification #3

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    7 miles north of Phelan, CA
    Posts
    2,101

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    I did some searching for these boot things.
    Looked at bicycle places but the boots they have did not have dimensions.
    That is of no help.
    The search also turned up several e bey vendors.
    Look, they have dimensions.

    I picked one and ordered.
    12 rubber boots for $3.75, delivered.

    Even if they are wrong, I do not have much invested.
    Besides, what ever they are, I am sure I can make them work if I have to.
    I have files, sand paper and drill bits.
    Not to mention, 7 different glues and bonders.

    For the $3.75, I can not even buy the gas to drive to town and back.
    .
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    7 miles north of Phelan, CA
    Posts
    2,101

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    2 thing to update....

    1. The pipes under the floor, I am trying to fix are doing their best to stop me.
    Cut a hole in the floor.
    Removed part of the wall.
    My reach is about 2" short of getting to the place I need to get.
    Then while on the floor, I rolled over to get up and roll on to the handle of my hammer.
    A kidney punch was never like this.
    Can't hardly move to get up after sitting.
    Accompanied by a fever.

    2. This morning I got an e-mail saying the ordered rubber boots have been pulled from stock and have been put on the truck heading out.
    At least this is going well.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    7 miles north of Phelan, CA
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    Last Monday, the 11th, I got hurt.
    Turns out it was not me rolling over on the hammer handle.
    Each day it got worse and there is no visible buries.
    Friday, I called a friend to drive me to the VA hospital emergency.
    5 hours of tests and a hand full of pain and relaxant drugs, I was sent home.

    Now 2 days later, still having issues but not getting worse.
    Maybe a little better.
    I am learning how I can move and how I better not move if I do not want to find myself on the floor.
    The biggest issue is getting up out of a chair and out of bed. (this is the hardest)

    I can stand up just find as long as I do not bend forward and down or twist to the left.
    Sneezing is out of the question and coughing, well, the first one I can get through but the second one better not happen.
    --------------
    Now an update.
    I was out in the shop this morning.
    I taped off and painted the deck non skid and the upper hull sonar on the bow.
    Flat black with no polishing.

    Looks good but I do not think it will last.
    I think wiping the hull dry with a rag will buff it out.

    When I can, I will look for a dark gray paint.
    I want just a little contract from the hull flat black and the non skid areas.
    But then maybe I won't worry about it.

    Next time in the shop will be with the cylinder.
    I need to make a new part for the sail planes control rod coming out of the cylinder.
    Currently there is a part to accept a Z bend brass rod.
    It now needs to have my magnets attached that connect to the sail planes long control rod.

    I have time to wait for the control rod rubber boots to arrive before starting the re trimming of the boat.
    Besides, right now, I do not think I can get down to my knees to put the boat and retrieve it from the tub.

    This post was to let everyone know, I am still here working when I can.
    Not at it every day, like I try to do.
    I am making progress.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    7 miles north of Phelan, CA
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    I am making small parts again.

    Moving on the control rod seal connectors.
    I need 3 connectors, so I will build them from sheet plastic.
    Using a steel square and my Exacto knife, I will make 3 1/2" x8" strips to start.
    I do not use the sharp edge of the knife.
    I use the back side and drag it across the plastic against the square.
    Using the sharp edge the knife blade can wonder of track.
    The back edge will stay against the square by angling the knife slightly.


    2 strips made.
    1 more to go.


    Strips cut and then I made 1" long pieces.
    Takes 8 pieces to make 1 connector. 1/2"x1/2".
    Cleaned up the edges of all the pieces and they are ready for cement.


    Cement applied and the pieces are squared to each other 1 piece at a time.
    Once 8 pieces are put together, they go in the vise.
    Well, 1 went in to the small clamp.


    While I leave these parts to cure, I will make the parts needed to put the magnets on the control rod.
    Remember, I am turning the long control rod that goes from the sail control horn to the rear control rod around.
    (long control rod can be seen in the top photo where the plastic sheet is ready to cut)
    The magnets were at the front and the long control rod stayed with the cylinder.
    This required a velcro strap and the rod kept getting in the way while working on the inside of the hull.

    I am turning the long control rod around so it stays in the upper hull when the hull is open.
    I need to make something that I can install and remove with just a single set screw.

    Here are the 2 magnets and the new shaft for them. (1/16" turned down using a file and the dremel on slow)
    A piece of 1/8" brass tubing split for about 1/4" and flattened in the vise.
    Hear all the parts I will assemble.
    The brass tubing will be soldered to the 1/16" wheel collar. (the brass tubing sides will be formed around the wheel collar)
    A hole will be drilled in the end of the tubing one I know the height needed.

    .
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    7 miles north of Phelan, CA
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    The 3 blocks have been squared up (1/2"x1/2") using the drill press and a straight mill bit.
    Using 2 wooden blocks I squared up the ends with sand paper on the bench.

    Drilled a pilot hole through the pieces long ways.
    Then upped the drill size to 1 over 1/8".

    These parts are ready for a long bolt and 2 nuts so I can turn them in the drill press and turn them round.
    Not much else I can do until I receive the rubber boots so I know what size to trim the parts down to.
    .
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    7 miles north of Phelan, CA
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    As of yesterday, no rubber boots.
    I looked at the order and I see I should not expect them until the end of next week. oops on my part.
    I think I will turn the 3 parts today.
    This will turn the blocks in to nice cylinder shaped pieces.
    I will leave them over sized.
    Currently they have 6 flat sides.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    364

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    I looked through your posts here. I've come to not love the Z cut myself Ralph. I like the solution you came up with here. I think watching others peoples solutions has been my 2nd favorite things to see. The first is just watching the projects come together. I confess I am afraid of bondo. So much work, but every time I see someone use it the results are pretty amazing how it's smooths out once you've ground down half your fingers. LOL!

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    7 miles north of Phelan, CA
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    I use Bondo glaze but I do not use Bondo Auto Body Filler. (maybe I should on some projects)
    The glaze sands and files rather easily. (no cheese grader required)

    After years of always having issues with the Z cut, I finally decided to just cut my Skipjack bow off and rebuild it as as center line cut.
    I no l9onger have to try an get all the tabs and hooks to line up so I could slide the upper hull back 1/2".
    Now I can just put the rear 1/8" upper hull tab in to the tail cone and drop the upper hull down.
    Once down, I just have to push the upper hull back about 1/16" for the pin and socket to engage.
    When the pin and socket engage, all the alignment tabs around the hull hold the hull sides in line.

    Because mine is a rebuild, there are lots of tabs that are not needed, but removing them might damage the hull.
    On a new hull, it would be so simple and clean.

    I think the Skipjack pins and sockets would be more than enough.
    My original build removed those mid hull pins and sockets.
    I had to make some to replace them.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    7 miles north of Phelan, CA
    Posts
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    Default

    Back to the control rod seal connectors.

    I put a bolt through the plastic piece with 2 nuts to lock them in place.
    This is so I can chuck it up in the drill press and turn it.


    Clamping my home made cutter in place.
    Moving it in until it just touches the high side of the part.


    Run the plastic part up and down, slowly against the cutter.
    After getting a smooth cut, then I tap the far end of the angle iron cutter to move it closer to the part.
    Keep doing this until I get the size I want.
    5 or 6 times is what was required on this part.
    Then I cut a shoulder at the bottom of the part that will be inserted in to the end cap, where the o-ring currently is.


    First part roughed in.
    More cutting to fit after I get the rubber boots.


    All 3 parts turned for now.

    .
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

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