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Thread: Transportation Box Emblem

  1. #1
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    Default Transportation Box Emblem

    I thought I would make some ID badges for the transportation boxes.

    Figure I need a Skipjack and an Akula II badge.
    Make some silhouette of the 2 boats.
    Made them in 3 different sizes.
    5.75", 6.00 and 6.25"
    Why, because there seems to be a difference from my software to my printer.
    The first 6" printout was 5.75" and not 6".
    It may have been me and where I measured from.
    I wanted from bow to propellor to be 6".
    I might have grabbed from bow to end of propellor cone.
    Anyway, I got what I wanted printing out the 3 options.
    ====================================
    First thing to do was cut 4 - 1/16" pieces of sheet plastic.
    Glue 2 pieces together to get 1/8" thick pieces.
    Did that and clamped them together to cure.

    I made 2 silhouette of each boat of each size.
    I glued a drawing to each piece of plastic.

    Using my Dremel and a thin grinding wheel, I started hand shaping the plastic, cutting close tot he lines but not to the lines to start.
    Then I slowly got closer to the lines.


    They are not perfect but they are so small, I think this will do.
    This is the Skipjack badge.
    In the photo, I can see a little more work on cleaning it up.


    Skipjack badge next to ruler showing 6" long.


    Here are both the Skipjack and Akula II badges.
    Both ready for clean up.

    I plan to put a couple of masts on each.
    Not all of them but 2 I think will do.
    I have some .028" piano wire that should do the trick.


    Originally, I thought I would put these on the sides of the transportation boxes.
    I am leaning that way because the badges would tell me which way the boat goes in the box.

    But, I will place them on the top and take a look.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  2. #2
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    Default

    Had a little time before going to the big town this morning.

    Went out to the shop and was going to do one thing and ended up doing another.

    I took the Skipjack emblem and traced the hull on another piece of sheet plastic, lees the sail and tail group.
    I files and sanded the piece until it matched the original.
    Then I used a 1/4" drum sander to give the piece a rounded shape, sort of.
    This did two things.
    It rounded the piece giving a 3D effect.
    It also set the sail back 1/16' so I do not have to try and sand the sail thinner to give the look of the sail sitting on the hull.
    I worked it for about 15 minutes.
    I would place this piece over the original emblem and look at the effect.
    I like it so far.
    More sanding and shaping.
    The emblem is still more or less flat being only 3/16" thick, but the hull now appears to be round and not flat.

    I shaped the piece until it fit exactly on top of the original pieces.
    Not only does the sail set back, the exhaust housing is also set back.

    Thinking I can round off the front of the sail and taper the rear of the sail to get the tear drop look.
    Maybe event he rudders can be shaped.

    I got far enough and liked it enough, I glued the two parts together.
    Once cured, I can continue rounding off the hull in to the first layer of plastic of the original.


    Front the front about table level.


    What is the worst that can happen?
    I have to make another one. (about 15 to 20 minutes for the original emblem)
    Or I run this piece through the drill press with a mill bit to skin the top, third layer, off.

    With a little more time, I scribed and cut out a piece of plastic for the Akula emblem.
    I will work on that one when and if the Skipjack comes out as I hope.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  3. #3
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    Did some shaping with file and Exacto knife.
    Actually used the knife to scrape the edges down.

    Hull shaped.
    Sail shaped.
    Rudders shaped.
    Mast made and installed in grooved made in the back of the sail.

    I think I will stop here. I like it.

    Still need to look for the aluminum to make a back plate.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  4. #4
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    Default

    Silhouette has been painted flat black.

    I cut an old speed limit sign to get the aluminum back ground.
    Contrary to the photo, the aluminum is square on all corners.

    I need to get some small bolts and then I think I might round off the corners of the backing plate.

    I have some clear label paper that I think I might print the name of the boat and put on the aluminum below the silhouette to ID the boat.

    .
    Plate is 7" x 3.25" x 1/16"
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  5. #5
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    I decided to mount the emblem on the side of the box.
    This tells me which way the boat is in the box.
    The backing plate is mounted with 4 stainless bolts.
    The plastic emblem is temporarily mounted using 3 small spots of silicone.
    If I want to add the name, I can remove the emblem and adjust placement.

    .
    Boat in the box.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  6. #6
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    I am still working on the Akula emblem.

    I am currently side tracked after this past Saturday's sub gathering.
    Prepped my Skipjack ready for the water.
    Put it in and started to make a 30' circle on the surface before diving.
    About 10' to 12' out the stern started to drop.
    In a matter of seconds the bow was straight up.

    Not wanting to go swimming, added power to the propeller.
    The boat came up and then laid down almost level in the water with some speed on.
    However, the boat was almost full decks awash.

    Made a sharp turn to the left and headed back to the edge of the pond.
    Stopped the boat about 12" from the concrete pond edging.
    I was able to reach down and grab the boat.
    Lifting it out of the water, the usually draining of the water took place.

    Walked the 100' or so back to the picnic tables where the stand was.
    removed the screw and lifted the top of the hull off.
    Turned the power off.
    Picked up the lower hull and rolled it 90 degrees.
    Sure enough, there was water int he cylinder.
    Removed the 2 long rods that hold the end caps on and removed the front end cap.
    Dumped the water out.
    I guess about 4 to 6 ounces.
    I did not try to find the problem at the pond.
    Left the cylinder open to let it dry out.
    Was still damp on Sunday, so I removed the stern end cap and removed all the electronics out of the cylinder.
    I will look for the problem once it all dries out completely.
    I may turn another front end cap.
    I am thinking of moving the power switch internal.
    Using a small tool I made for my George Washington to reach through the Schreader valve to turn on and off the power.
    By doing this, I eliminate the rubber switch boot. I have had 2 crack over the past two years.
    That may be the issue now.
    Also by moving the switch internally, I can make a new end cap that is thinner and with only 1 through hole for the Schreader valve.
    I even think I have a couple of end cap blanks.
    =============
    I had the Akula II with me, but I decided not to run it.
    On Sunday, I did a water test of the Akula only to find I have a small leak.
    I removed the rear access hatch and put the boat back in the water.
    I turned the boat over on it's back to see in to the compartment after of the pressure hull. (this is a dry hull boat)
    I see little bubbles coming from the area of the pressure switch inlet which is near the water tubing to the piston.
    But I see a brass tube end which I have yet to identify.
    I stopped the search to let the boat dry out. (I had other things more pressing to get done)

    I need to find my small mirror so I can see in side the compartment better.
    It may be a simple rubber hose loose on the brass tube or a crack where the rear bulkhead was installed and sealed at the factory.
    I could be the unknown brass tube end.
    It might be one of the 4 frame tubes and the bolt in the other end may not be sealed completely.

    I also have a problem with the proportional part of the ballast system in the Akula.
    I use a knob to operate the piston and it moves depending on how much I turn the knob.
    But, when I turn it to remove the water (surfacing) the motor does not run until it hits the end stop.
    The motor stops the threaded rod about 1" short then pulses between 7 and 10 times to get to the stop.

    Sent a message to Engel's and received 2 messages back with possible solutions.
    This problem did not just start.
    It has been this way from the beginning.

    I think it is my Tx.
    I do not think the knob control is sensitive enough to run the piston smoothly.

    Anyway, first will will find the leak then I will worry about the piston control.
    Last resort, I can reprogram the system to a 3 way switch. On/Off/On instead of proportional.

    Looks like I have a lot of things to do.
    I do not know in what order I will take this on.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  7. #7
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    Akula II emblem.

    Today, I sat down and did the shaping of the 3 pieces of sheet plastic.
    I bonded them 1 at a time and shaped again.
    The rudders and rudder bulb were a bit of a challenge but nothing that taking my time could not conquer.
    3 layers of plastic and this is what I ended up with.

    I may round the hull a little more now that I see the photo.
    The boat is just sitting on the aluminum back plate at this time.

    .
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  8. #8
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    I have done more work on shaping the Akula II emblem.
    Painted and currently drying.
    --------------------
    I took the time to mock up the emblems I had in mind.
    Printed them out and I have taped the images on the boxes so I can look at them to decide if this is what I will go with.
    Thinking the letters could be 5.8" tall. (can get these in vinyl at the Hobby Lobby in town)



    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  9. #9
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    Akula II emblem installed on the box.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

  10. #10
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    Was out in the shop.
    Sealed of the ceiling vent for the winter and turned on the heater.
    Looked at the primer put on yesterday.
    Not liking it at all.
    It is still wet or tacky.

    Anyway, I decided to make a box emblem for the George Washington and the ALMA.
    Cut the aluminum backing plates on the table saw.
    Setup the drill press to drill the corner holes for bolts.
    I set up a jig with 2 clamps and a piece of flat bar.
    All the plates are drilled exactly the same.
    4 bolts will go through all the plates at once, even though I drill 1 plate at a time.
    Sanded the plates to clean them up.

    On to the plastic shaping and assembling.
    Same as above so there are no photos of the process.
    ---------------------------
    GW plastic work is complete but I wanted a better line for the lower missile deck edge. so I glazed it and will file it in.
    It was not bad, just a couple of scribe lines I did not want to show.

    The ALMA hull is near complete and I have started on the sails.
    Next will be the masts and booms.

    I also have to put a few standing rig lines on this.
    I have a plan.
    I have lots of this aluminum that I am making the backing out of.
    I am going to take a small piece and scribe some lines on it.
    Then I will spray it flat black.
    Once it dries, I will sand the plate again, hoping to leave the lines on the plate.
    (can't hurt to try)

    But, I do have a photo of the 2 emblems as they are right now.



    The hull is 3 layers of sheet plastic.
    The sails are 1/16" thick plastic sheet that I sanded down to about 1/32" thick and sharpened the trailing edge.
    Did the same on the keel board.
    SSBN 598 - blue/nuke trained IC/forward

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